Exploring Italy, Pt. 7: Milan and Lake Como
- Aug 20, 2025
- 9 min read
If you've jumped right into this part of the adventure, this is where we've been:
If all you know about Milan is pretty much the name, it's a bigger city than you might expect. It's a mix of modern and historic/iconic, has clean streets and sometimes very poor air quality (due to geography), and is a place of intrigue. Primarily, what brings us here is da Vinci's "The Last Supper", completed in 1498. Otherwise, we are looking forward to seeing the unique architecture of the Milan Cathedral and trying some risotto alla Milanese. Lesser important, but also of note, are the smallest bar in the world and one of six Starbucks coffee roastery locations in the world. Here's where we are, in a larger context:
If you're from the U.S., or at least familiar with our interstate system, there's a road that rings around Milan, bringing to mind a highway bypass. That road connects to several motorways, but we don't have to worry about it, because we aren't driving! The central train station is adjacent to the northeast part of that ring. Some of our points of interest are near the southwest portion, so that's where we will be staying. Navigating the public transit system is a little complicated, and it takes a subway ride and two bus lines to get to our hotel. Here are our intended stops during this day trip:
Since our time here is limited to a single day, upon checking in at the hotel, we're ready to head right back out to explore. First up, we check out the Starbucks Roastery. It's a big, impressive building, in a former post office. I rarely visit coffee shops at home in L.A., and when I do, there's no chance I'm going to pay $4 to see what it's like with olive oil in it. Starbucks' new "oleato" line of drinks was inspired by a Sicilian tradition of having a spoonful of olive oil with coffee. With this being vacation, I'm willing try shell out some cash to try one of these drinks. Guess what? It tastes like coffee with a little bit of olive oil added. The "olio" mixed in doesn't enhance or otherwise change the flavor profile of this drink. It's good to know what the roastery experience is about, since it's a popular destination, yet I do wish we would have spent this time experiencing something more authentically Italian.
From here, we visit the famous Milan Cathedral ("Duomo di Milano"). This structure features an intricate design and, like the Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona, construction took an insanely long time. In the case of the one here in Milan, it started in 1386, and the final touches were finished in 1965. You can buy tickets to visit the top, which I really want to do, but there just isn't enough time.
Next to the cathedral is the also-impressive Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II mall, completed in 1877 and featuring upscale shopping and dining. Said to bring good luck, an interesting tradition here is to find the mosaic of the bull on the floor, plant one heel on his testes, and complete a full 360° spin. Some sources say it takes three spins. I guess some people have felt like their luck has improved after doing either. Poor bull.
After this excursion, we head to see Leonardo da Vinci's "The Last Supper", which requires a timed ticket. Of course, we've all seen the painting depicted a million times, in TV shows and movies, on websites, etc. We have even seen an impressive replica carved into a salt wall, deep underground, in a mine in Poland:
As familiar as we are with the painting, how many people know about the context? In my mind, "The Last Supper" has always been in some absolutely massive, Roman Catholic building that's like the Sistine Chapel. It's not, though. Instead, the painting is on a wall in a convent, called the Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie ("Church of Holy Mary of Grace"), shown below.
The painting itself is in a former refectory (dining room). Before entering, we have to step into an airlock-style chamber/hallway for a few minutes, which keeps out some of Milan's often-polluted air and helps preserve the artwork.
So much can be said about this painting, but I think these are the most important facts:
It was completed by Leonardo da Vinci in 1498. It's very possible that he had help from his students and studio assistants.
Humidity quickly caused the work to deteriorate, with one record saying it was unrecognizable after nearly 60 years.
In 1652, a doorway was cut through where Jesus' feet were once visible.
The first restoration attempt started in 1726, and several have occurred since.
During World War II, the refectory was destroyed during an aerial bombardment, yet the painting (which was protected with scaffolding, bracing, and sandbags) survived.
If you read about the restorations, and if we're going to be honest, what you see on the wall isn't quite what Leonardo da Vinci actually painted. It is in spirit, based on copies and historical records, but what we see today largely isn't the very paint he applied. At the same time, knowing one of the most historically significant artists/inventors in the history of the world worked right here is awe-inspiring. I wish I could have stayed in this room all night, but we were limited to 15 minutes.
Also, what you don't normally see from this room is the very-detailed scene painted on the wall at the opposite end. "Crucifixion" by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano was completed in 1495 and also was well-protected against bombing raids during World War II.
After this visit, our tour guide walks us to the Sforza Castle ("Castello Sforzesco"). It's a massive fortress first built in the 15th century by the Sforza family, then expanded further during the following two centuries. Today, it houses museums and art collections. There's free public access to the courtyard, where our guide points out numerous design details and art built in the structures surrounding us.
This is the end of the guided tour, as the evening approaches. We stroll back towards our hotel, then on to our dinner reservation nearby. This is my one chance to try the authentic risotto alla Milanese I briefly mentioned earlier. This dish is Italian rice and, often, some combination of butter/onion/white wine/Parmesan cheese, cooked in broth until the consistency is creamy. The real-deal version includes saffron spice. What I order is the risotto, plus veal shanks, which is a regional specialty known as ossobucco alla Milanese. The meal is rich and delicious and pairs well with the local, house red wine.
A unique part of this neighborhood is the canal that splits the Navigli and Porta Genova districts. Bars, restaurants, and shops line the Navigli Canal, and it's a bustling area at night.
This is where the supposed "world's smallest bar" (called Backdoor 43) is located, which accommodates four guests at a time. Given our limited time here, we don't want to commit to a timed reservation and a drink minimum. Instead, we knock on the window; it opens up, and we order two takeaway cocktails, with a pair of hands being all we ever see of the bartender.
This whole area has a party vibe, with music thumping and lights twirling. It's really fun and, on the way back to our hotel, we find a tapas bar. It's a nice treat, as we each buy a spritz, and the bartender then invites us to have whatever we want from the buffet off to the side: sandwiches, olives, grilled veggies, chips, and more.
Lake Como, Italy:
The early morning train ride from Milan to Como takes about 45 minutes. Exiting the station, with no maps in sight and no cell service, it takes a few minutes to figure out which way to go. During the walk into town, one of our phones connects to a tower just long enough to load the rest of the way ahead.
Our lodging is kind of weird, accessible only by going through a restaurant. The problem, though, is that the restaurant isn't yet open, so the doors are closed... and we lost cell reception again, making it impossible to get on WhatsApp and call the associated number posted on the door. Walking to a nearby plaza gets me back on the grid, allowing me to call the host. After a few minutes, she arrives, shows us the way through the dining room, and up the stairs to our room.
Before long, we are back outside, exploring. We'd like to go check out Bellagio, but the bus station info is a mess. We read we could buy tickets at the train station, so we head back to where we just were 30 minutes ago. They don't sell bus tickets. From there, we are directed to a shop back in town (also where we just were), where they can be purchased. That info is correct. Then, it becomes a matter of trying to decipher the directions we were given, for how to get to the bus stop. Surely, it must be where all the tour buses are, by the harbor, yet we don't see any signs for the one we need. We ask around, and no one knows anything. We look around more and eventually find a small bus terminal (called "Stazione ASF Autolinee" in the navigation app) that displays our bus number on a sign. Upon boarding, we definitely confirm this will take us in the direction of Bellagio.
Before we get going, here's some very brief info about Lake Como… It’s possible you’ve heard it about because of the house George Clooney bought here, from the Heinz family, in the early 2000s. In Star Wars: Episode II – Attack of the Clones, the Anakin and Padme wedding scene was filmed here. This is a place where some nobles and aristocrats have owned second, third, or fourth homes for centuries. It’s enclosed by steep mountains, with most of the homes and towns being situated just above the waterline. The lake is big. The lake is beautiful.
On the way to Bellagio, we will make a quick stop in a small town called Nesso. A lot of the winding roads along the way are barely big enough for a small car, yet this very full bus zips around turns. Several times, the driver slams on the brakes and we, the people, just about fall like dominoes. At other times, we slowly creep around narrow curves, and a line of oncoming cars are forced to stop and back up so the bus can get through. One man laughs at this little dance and says to his wife “We’re bigger, so we have the right of way.”
Us included, I think it's safe to say people generally only know about Nesso because of social media. There really isn't much here beyond residential homes, a mediocre restaurant/pizza shop, a nice, little waterfall, and the real jewel: Ponte della Civera stone arch bridge, which dates back to the Middle Ages. This is a great spot to hop off and swim in the cold lake water.
After drying off and climbing up a challenging amount of stairs, we hop on the next bus and continue on to Bellagio. There isn't much to report here. It definitely has an upscale vibe.
Bellagio has a lot of restaurants and shops and, believe me, we've seen a lot of shops throughout Italy during the past few weeks. While sitting outside at lunch, a familiar face walks by: Major League Baseball Hall of Famer Frank Thomas.
Something that’s been on my mind in Italy is the intentional concept of “slow food”. I’m at odds about it because, in Italy, the ENTIRE EXPERIENCE IS SLOW: the ordering, the delivery, getting the bill, paying. The idea feels like romanticized social hour(s) that’s much different from ordering quickly, enjoying your food, paying quickly, then going for a walk wherever you are. Not once have we felt rushed out, and part of this certainly must be that, in the U.S., the waitstaff are working for tips and, thus, would like to turn around the tables quickly. I certainly understand having a "dining experience", but every aspect often being slow here is starting to frustrate me, especially the service.
After that crazy bus ride, along all the narrow curves, we opt to take the ferry back to Como. This is a great choice, providing a nice, scenic ride. There are so many big, beautiful estates along the way. We spot George Clooney's waterfront house:
We spot Villa del Balbianello, where part of Star Wars was filmed:
We spot that stone arch bridge from earlier:
The sun is shining, and the boat ride has been nice, but it's a very blustery day. The lake is choppy, and back on land, the wind literally almost knocks over our spritzes at a waterside cafe.
Visiting Lake Como has been a lovely experience, although a very quick one. Either way, it was necessary for us to stay here, in order to get into Switzerland. In short, our visit here was originally going to be a day trip from Milan, then we would head to Zermatt, Switzerland. Oddly, though, train tickets from Milan to Brig, Switerland to Zermatt were completely sold out. Thus, we modified our itinerary. Instead of Milan - Zermatt - Lucerne - Zurich, it turned into Milan - Lake Como - Lugano - Lucerne - Zurich.
This talk of Switzerland means this trip is nearing the end. That seems wild. See ya there.
"Exploring Italy, Pt. 7: Milan and Lake Como (2023)"
Written by: Justin Kilmer
Critiqued by: Janine Kilmer
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